Backpacking Albania: the honest budget route

Backpacking Albania is still the best-value trip in Europe, but the country has changed fast. Ksamil is overbuilt, Riviera prices rival Greece in August, and the Theth road is finally paved. This guide cuts the hype and gives you a working 10-day route, real furgon fares in USD, and the hostels worth booking.

Quick answer: backpacking Albania in 60 seconds

Plan 10 days and $40–$55 a day. Fly into Tirana, loop Shkodër → Komani Lake ferry → Theth–Valbona → back to Tirana → Berat → Gjirokastër → Sarandë, skipping Ksamil for Himarë or Dhërmi. Go in May, June, or September. Use furgons and buses, carry Albanian lek in cash, and book the Komani ferry through your hostel.

Three things most guides get wrong and this one gets right:

• US citizens get a full year visa-free, not 90 days.
• Ksamil is not worth the hype anymore — Himarë and Dhërmi are the honest picks.
• Riviera costs in July and August are no longer cheap. Budget by region, not country average.

Pro Tip: Walk out of Tirana International (TIA) and take the Rinas Express bus for 400 lek (about $4). It drops at the National History Museum on Skanderbeg Square in 35 minutes. A taxi on the same run runs $25–$32 — skip it unless you land after midnight.

Is Albania cheap to backpack?

Albania is still Europe’s cheapest backpacker country outside Moldova, but the gap has narrowed sharply. Expect $40–$55 per day in Tirana, Shkodër, Berat, and Gjirokastër, and $60–$90 on the Riviera in July and August. Dorms run $12–$22, a full taverna meal is $8–$12, and a half-liter of Korça beer costs $2.50.

Quick cost reference:

• Hostel dorm (Tirana / Shkodër / Berat): $12–$22
• Hostel dorm (Sarandë / Himarë, August): up to $25
• Byrek from a bakery: $0.60–$1.80
• Full taverna meal: $8–$12 inland, $14–$20 on the Riviera in peak season
• Korça beer (half-liter): $2.50
• Espresso: $0.60–$1.40
• Bunk’Art 1 or 2 ticket: $11
• Butrint National Park entry: $12
• Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) entry: around $0.60
• Ksamil sunbed (pair with umbrella, August): $20–$70

The sharpest price jumps in the last five years have hit the Albanian Riviera. A plate of tavë kosi in Berat’s old bazaar cost me 650 lek (about $8); in Ksamil the same dish hit 1,400 lek with a mandatory cover charge.

Pro Tip: Always decline dynamic currency conversion (DCC) at ATMs. When the screen asks if you want to be charged in USD instead of lek, say no. Your bank’s conversion is roughly 3% better than the ATM’s. Over a 10-day trip this saves $20–$40.

The 10-day backpacking Albania route

The cleanest 10-day route runs Tirana (2 nights) → Shkodër (1) → Theth (1) → hike to Valbona (1) → Komani ferry back to Shkodër → Berat (2) → Gjirokastër (1) → Sarandë and Himarë (2). You end near the Greek border with the option to exit to Corfu by ferry or loop back to Tirana by bus in four hours.

Day-by-day breakdown:

• Day 1 — Arrive Tirana. Walk Skanderbeg Square, New Bazaar, Bunk’Art 2. Sleep at Trip’n’Hostel.
• Day 2 — Tirana. Dajti Express cable car morning, Bunk’Art 1 afternoon, Blloku for dinner.
• Day 3 — Furgon Tirana → Shkodër (2 hours). Lake Shkodër bike ride. The Wanderers Hostel.
• Day 4 — 6:30 a.m. transfer Shkodër → Theth (3 hours on the new paved road).
• Day 5 — Hike Theth to Valbona (6–8 hours). Stay at Rilindja Guesthouse.
• Day 6 — Valbona → Komani ferry → Shkodër, then night bus or furgon to Berat.
• Day 7 — Berat. Mangalem and Gorica quarters, castle, Onufri icon museum.
• Day 8 — Furgon Berat → Gjirokastër via Tepelenë (4 hours). Castle and Zekate House.
• Day 9 — Gjirokastër → Sarandë (1.5 hours). Afternoon at Blue Eye.
• Day 10 — Day trip to Butrint, evening bus to Himarë for one proper beach night.

Reversing the usual south-to-north flow and hitting the Alps early means you arrive at Valbona Pass in empty June light — four hikers on the ridge instead of forty. Most bloggers save the Alps for the end, which guarantees crowds.

Pro Tip: Do not try to add Korçë or Ohrid to a 10-day loop. You will spend two full days on furgons and see neither town properly. Save the east for a dedicated 14-day trip.

Getting around Albania: furgons, buses, and the Komani ferry

Albania has no passenger trains. You move on furgons (shared minibuses that leave when full), regional buses with fixed schedules, the Komani Lake ferry for the northern Alps, and Bolt rideshare inside Tirana. Budget $5–$20 per intercity leg. Buy furgon tickets from the driver in cash. Book the Komani ferry the day before through your Shkodër hostel.

Real fares and times:

• Tirana → Shkodër: €5 / about $6, 2 hours, furgon every 60–90 min
• Tirana → Berat: 500 lek / about $6, 2 hours, furgon
• Tirana → Sarandë: €13–€17 / $14–$18, 4.5–5 hours, direct Riviera bus
• Shkodër → Theth: €10–€15 / $11–$17, 3 hours, hostel-booked 4×4 minibus
• Komani ferry (Berisha): €10, 2.5–3 hours, departs 9 a.m.
• Komani ferry (Alpin): €15, 2.5 hours, departs 11 a.m.
• Rinas Express (airport bus): 400 lek / $4, hourly, runs 7 a.m.–11 p.m.
• Tirana airport taxi: €20–€25 / $25–$32
• Bolt inside Tirana: 200–500 lek / $2.50–$6 per ride

The Koman pier at 8:30 a.m. is genuine chaos — boats reshuffle passengers between Berisha, Alpin, and Rozafa as pickup trucks roll on first. Stay with your bag and ask every crew member for the boat that matches your ticket. Nobody will reprint it for you.

Furgon vs bus vs car rental vs Bolt

Four ways to move around Albania, honest trade-offs:

• Furgon — Cheapest (€5–€17 per leg). No schedule, leaves when full. Best for Tirana ↔ Shkodër, Berat, Gjirokastër.
• Regional bus — Slightly pricier but runs on a posted timetable. Best for Tirana → Sarandë direct and the Riviera coast road.
• Rental car — €30–€50/day low season, €70–€120/day August. Best only for a 3-day Riviera dash (Sarandë → Vlorë loop). Skip for the north.
• Bolt — City-only. Tirana, Durrës, and Vlorë have coverage. Sarandë is patchy. Cash or card in-app.

The contrarian call: do not rent a car in the north. Theth’s road is paved but still narrow, parking at trailheads is informal, and the furgon-plus-Komani-ferry combo delivers the same route for a quarter of the cost with no stress.

How to book the Komani Lake ferry

The Komani Lake ferry is the single hardest piece of logistics on this trip. Get it wrong and you lose a day. Four steps:

• Step 1 — Pick your boat. Berisha (€10) departs 9 a.m., arrives Fierza around noon. Alpin (€15) departs 11 a.m., has better seating. Rozafa is the cheapest cargo option (€7) but runs irregular days.
• Step 2 — Book through your Shkodër hostel the night before. The Wanderers, Mi Casa es tu Casa, and Bed Station all handle this. Price usually includes the 6:30 a.m. bus transfer to Komani pier.
• Step 3 — Arrive at Komani pier by 8:30 a.m. Show your hostel voucher, find your named boat, claim a seat on the open-air upper deck if the weather is clear.
• Step 4 — Pay cash on the pier or on board. Nobody takes cards. Bring exact change if you can.

Pro Tip: Sit on the right-hand side of the Berisha ferry heading north. The cliffs are closer, the light is better, and you’ll get the shot of the narrow canyon where the lake bends 90 degrees.

Is Albania safe for backpackers, including solo female travelers?

Albania is one of Europe’s safer backpacker countries. It ranks 45th on the Global Peace Index (the US sits 132nd), violent crime is rare, and the besa hospitality code means locals often go out of their way to help travelers. Solo female backpackers report feeling safe in Tirana, Shkodër, Berat, and across the Riviera, with the usual advice: Bolt over unmarked taxis, modest dress in rural villages, and watch your drink in Blloku.

What “safe” actually looks like on the ground:

• Street harassment: mild and mostly verbal. Older men stare more than younger men comment.
• Scams: almost none outside the airport taxi line. No menu switches, no fake police.
• Theft: petty pickpocketing in Tirana’s New Bazaar on Saturday mornings. Keep wallet in a front pocket.
• Night walking: fine in Tirana (Blloku, Pazari i Ri), Shkodër old town, Berat castle area, Gjirokastër center.
• Drivers: aggressive inside Tirana, relaxed on the coast. Always use the crosswalk at Skanderbeg Square — cars do not slow down for pedestrians elsewhere.

Solo female travelers I’ve met in Tirana and Shkodër consistently say Albania feels easier than Italy or Spain. The hostel scene at Trip’n’Hostel, Milingona, and The Wanderers is social enough that nobody eats alone unless they choose to. I walked back to Milingona from Blloku at 1 a.m. on a Saturday — the only attention was a street cat.

Pro Tip: Use Bolt, not unmarked taxis, inside Tirana. Bolt rides from Blloku to Milingona or Trip’n’Hostel run 200–300 lek ($2.50–$3.50). Unmarked taxis on the same run quote €8–€10 to tourists.

When is the best time to backpack Albania?

Go in late May, June, or September. Daytime temperatures sit at 70–82°F (21–28°C), the sea is warm enough to swim from mid-June, prices run 20–30% below peak, and the Theth–Valbona trail is fully open. July and August push coastal temperatures to 85–95°F (30–35°C), triple Ksamil’s prices, and pack every hostel from Sarandë to Dhërmi.

Month-by-month honesty:

• April — Riviera cold, Alps closed. Skip unless you like Tirana museum weather.
• May — Second half only. Alps trail opens around May 20. Swimming still cool.
• June — The sweet spot. Alps fully open, Riviera uncrowded, prices low.
• July — Crowds arrive. Riviera full. Inland still pleasant.
• August — Peak insanity. Ksamil at 95°F (35°C) with beach walls of sunbeds. Avoid.
• September — Almost as good as June. Sea is 77°F (25°C) through mid-month.
• October — First half fine, second half rains begin. Alps trail closes around October 15.
• November–March — Tirana and Berat only. Korçë has a small Christmas market.

Second week of June in Dhërmi is the single best calendar slot in the country — 75°F (24°C) water, €20 guesthouses with balconies, three people on the beach before 10 a.m.

Where to sleep — best hostels for backpacking Albania

Book Trip’n’Hostel or Milingona in Tirana, The Wanderers in Shkodër for Alps logistics, Berat Backpackers for the mulberry garden, Rilindja Guesthouse in Valbona for the hike, and skip Ksamil hostels in favor of a private guesthouse in Himarë. Dorm prices sit at $12–$22 across the country, rising to $25 on the Riviera in August.

1. Trip’n’Hostel — Tirana

A two-floor house near Pazari i Ri with a garden bar that hosts family dinners on Tuesday and Thursday. The shower pressure is weak and the Wi-Fi cuts out after 10 p.m., but the social scene makes up for it. Owners run a Tirana food tour for €25 that hits Mrizi i Zanave’s kitchen-sister in the city.

• Location: Rruga Musa Maçi 14, near Pazari i Ri
• Cost: $15–$25 per dorm bed, cash only at check-in
• Best for: First-night solo arrivals, social travelers
• Time needed: 2 nights minimum to do Tirana properly

2. Milingona City Centre — Tirana

Quieter than Trip’n’Hostel, cleaner bathrooms, craft beer on tap from Puka Brewery. The owner drew me a bus-terminal map on a napkin on my second visit and it was more useful than Google Maps.

• Location: Rruga Pjeter Bogdani, Blloku
• Cost: $13–$22 per dorm bed
• Best for: Solo female travelers, light sleepers
• Time needed: 2 nights

3. The Wanderers Hostel — Shkodër

The single most important hostel on this route. The Wanderers runs the Theth transfer, books the Komani ferry, and puts a clipboard out at 9 p.m. for the 6:30 a.m. Alps run, signed with a pen chained to the bar. Rooftop terrace with Lake Shkodër views.

• Location: Rruga Hasan Riza Pasha, Shkodër
• Cost: $11–$18 per dorm bed
• Best for: Anyone doing Theth–Valbona or the Komani ferry
• Time needed: 1 night before the hike, 1 after

4. Rilindja Guesthouse — Valbona

The finish line of the Theth–Valbona hike. Family-run, wood-stove heating, trout from the river served at dinner. Rooms range from dorm-style huts to en-suite cabins. Reserve two weeks ahead for July and August.

• Location: Valbona valley, 9 miles (15 km) from Bajram Curri
• Cost: €25–€40 per person, dinner included
• Best for: Post-hike recovery
• Time needed: 1 night

5. Berat Backpackers — Berat

The mulberry garden, the fig tree, and the basement raki bar are the draws. Dorms are simple and the Wi-Fi is fine. The owner runs an evening walk to the castle at 5 p.m. that beats any paid tour.

• Location: Gorica quarter, across the river from Mangalem
• Cost: $10–$18 per dorm bed
• Best for: Budget travelers, raki drinkers
• Time needed: 2 nights

6. Urban Stay Sarandë — Sarandë

Cheap, central, and 10 minutes from the ferry pier to Corfu. Not social — this is a crash pad before the Riviera. Book a private guesthouse in Himarë instead if you want a beach experience.

• Location: Rruga Skënderbeu, central Sarandë
• Cost: $8–$15 per dorm bed
• Best for: One-night stops before Butrint or Corfu
• Time needed: 1 night

Daily budget breakdown by traveler type

A strict shoestring backpacker survives on $35 a day in Albania. A comfortable backpacker using dorms, public transport, and a mix of tavernas and self-cooked meals lands at $45–$55. A couple on a shoestring sharing private rooms averages $70–$85 combined. Add $15–$30 per person per day on the Riviera in July and August.

Daily breakdown across three traveler profiles (all in USD):

• Shoestring solo ($35/day)
  • Dorm bed: $12
  • Food: $12 (byrek breakfast, supermarket lunch, cheap taverna dinner)
  • Transport: $5 (average of furgons amortized over 10 days)
  • Activities: $5
  • Beer: $1
• Comfortable solo ($50/day)
  • Dorm bed: $18
  • Food: $18 (bakery breakfast, sit-down lunch, taverna dinner)
  • Transport: $7
  • Activities: $5 (one museum)
  • Drinks: $2
• Couple on a shoestring ($80/day combined)
  • Private guesthouse room: $35
  • Food for two: $30
  • Transport for two: $10
  • Activities for two: $5

The Riviera surcharge is real and consistent: expect to add $15–$30 per person per day in July and August for inflated food prices, sunbed fees, and the 20–40% hotel markup from Sarandë to Dhërmi.

Stacking a Bunk’Art and a Butrint in the same week cost me $23 — the hidden “culture tax” on back-to-back sightseeing days that nobody else in the hostel had budgeted for.

The Theth to Valbona hike

The Theth–Valbona traverse runs about 9 miles (15 km) with 3,200 feet (980 m) of climbing, takes 6–8 hours, and tops out at Valbona Pass at 5,760 feet (1,759 m). The trail is waymarked with red-and-white blazes and is safely hikeable from mid-June through mid-October. Start early from Theth, finish at Rilindja Guesthouse in Valbona, and return to Shkodër by the Komani ferry the next morning.

Trail facts:

• Distance: 9 miles (15 km)
• Elevation gain: 3,200 feet (980 m)
• Elevation loss into Valbona: 3,940 feet (1,200 m)
• High point: Valbona Pass, 5,760 feet (1,759 m)
• Duration: 6–8 hours including breaks
• Trail markings: red-white-red horizontal blazes painted on rocks and trees
• Season: mid-June to mid-October (snow closes the pass otherwise)
• Difficulty: moderate; the descent to Valbona is steep on loose scree

How the day actually runs:

• 7:00 a.m. — Breakfast at your Theth guesthouse (eggs, goat cheese, bread, coffee).
• 7:30 a.m. — Start walking up-valley from the church. First hour climbs through beech forest.
• 9:00 a.m. — Break at the first spring. Refill water.
• 11:30 a.m. — Tree line opens. Scree slope begins.
• 12:30–1:00 p.m. — Reach Valbona Pass. Two men sell blueberry juice from a cooler for 300 lek ($3) — the only thing between you and the long downhill to Valbona.
• 2:30 p.m. — Cross the Valbona river. Trail flattens.
• 3:30–4:30 p.m. — Arrive Rilindja Guesthouse, shower, dinner at 7 p.m.

Pro Tip: Most Shkodër hostels run a luggage transfer to Valbona (€6/day storage at the hostel, plus €10 to move your big pack on a vehicle that goes around via Bajram Curri). Hike with a day pack. Your knees will thank you on the scree descent.

The trail is well-marked, but fog rolls in above the tree line in early mornings. If you can see only two blazes ahead, stop and wait 15 minutes for the mist to lift. Do not bushwhack.

The Albanian Riviera — which beach town actually wins?

Skip Ksamil. The so-called Maldives of Europe is over-developed, privatized, and loud. Sunbeds run €20–€70 per pair, beaches are wall-to-wall loungers, and TripAdvisor sentiment has dropped sharply. Head to Himarë for the best balance of beach and town, Dhërmi for the best water, Borsh for the longest quiet stretch of sand, and Gjipe for the hike-in payoff.

Riviera town comparison:

• Ksamil — Crowd: extreme. Water: good. Food: tourist-priced. Budget: high. Verdict: skip.
• Himarë — Crowd: medium. Water: excellent. Food: honest tavernas. Budget: medium. Verdict: the best all-rounder.
• Dhërmi — Crowd: low-medium. Water: best in the country. Food: thin. Budget: medium. Verdict: go for the beach, not the food.
• Borsh — Crowd: very low. Water: good. Food: basic. Budget: low. Verdict: for introverts.
• Gjipe — Crowd: low. Water: great. Food: beach bar only. Budget: low. Verdict: day-trip only, no accommodation.
• Porto Palermo — Crowd: very low. Water: excellent. Food: none on-site. Budget: free (just bring lunch). Verdict: half-day stop with the castle.

At Gjipe I paid 400 lek ($4) for a beer served from a 1970s chest freezer. The whole beach was 40 people — no sunbed mafia, no speakers, no wristbands. A 30-minute walk in from the main road keeps it that way.

Pro Tip: Take the Sarandë → Himarë bus (€10, 1.5 hours) at 10 a.m. instead of the direct Tirana → Himarë bus. You’ll pass Saranda’s Lëkurësi Castle and the Llogara Pass hairpins in better morning light, and connections are more reliable.

Must-try Albanian food (and where to actually eat it)

Eat byrek every morning from a bakery for under $2, order tavë kosi (baked lamb in yogurt) in Berat, try qifqi (rice-herb balls) in Gjirokastër, and always finish with a shot of raki. A full taverna meal runs $8–$12 outside the Riviera and $14–$20 in peak-season coastal towns.

The five dishes to order and where:

• Byrek — Layered phyllo pie with spinach, cheese, or ground meat. Any corner bakery. 50–150 lek.
• Tavë kosi — Baked lamb with yogurt and rice. Order it at Onufri or Mangalemi in Berat. 650–1,000 lek.
• Qifqi — Fried rice and herb balls, a Gjirokastër specialty. Kujtimi restaurant near the bazaar does the canonical version. 300–500 lek.
• Fërgesë — Peppers, tomatoes, and feta baked in a clay pot. Everywhere, but best at Oda in Tirana. 400–700 lek.
• Raki — Clear grape or plum brandy, 40–50% ABV. Always offered by hosts. 100 lek a shot in tavernas, “on the house” at family meals.

In Gjirokastër a grandmother at Kujtimi served qifqi with a side of homemade raki “on the house.” The house shot is never optional — accept, sip slowly, and leave a 100-lek tip even though nobody asked for one. That is how besa works in practice.

For a benchmark splurge, take a furgon out to Mrizi i Zanave in Fishtë (1 hour north of Shkodër). Slow-food pioneer, farm-to-table, 4-course lunch under $25. One of the two or three best meals in the country.

Cultural etiquette and the mistakes backpackers make

Albanians often nod for “no” and shake their head for “yes” — the reverse of most cultures — which matters at furgon stops, market stalls, and family dinners. Besa means hosts will refuse payment for small kindnesses; accept, then leave a tip. Dress modestly at Bektashi and Orthodox sites, never refuse offered raki outright, and tip 10% in restaurants.

The five mistakes that mark you as a new arrival:

• Shaking your head when you mean yes. Locals will take away your plate, walk away from the furgon, or close the market stall.
• Saying “Greek” for anything Orthodox. Bektashi Sufism is the fourth largest religion in Albania and has its own traditions.
• Paying at a family meal. Leave cash on the table when you leave, never hand it over mid-meal.
• Wearing shorts at a Bektashi tekke. Long trousers or a wrap, shoulders covered.
• Refusing raki outright. Accept, sip, leave half if you must — but do not wave it away.

I nodded “yes” to a second helping in Theth; the grandmother took the plate away. Shake your head to confirm. It takes three meals to stop feeling wrong, and by the fourth you’ll do it naturally.

Do you need a visa for Albania?

US citizens get a full year visa-free in Albania under the 2022 bilateral agreement — not 90 days, despite what most guides say. Canadians, Brits, Australians, and EU passport holders get 90 days visa-free in any 180-day window. Land borders at Hani i Hotit (Montenegro), Morina (Kosovo), Qafë Thanë (North Macedonia), and Kakavijë (Greece) are routine. The Kakavijë crossing backs up on summer weekends.

Visa quick facts:

• US citizens: 365 days visa-free (longest in Europe)
• UK, Canada, Australia, EU: 90 days in any 180-day period
• Passport validity: minimum 3 months beyond planned departure
• Entry record: electronic, not always stamped
• Re-entry on US exemption: leave Albania for at least 90 days before re-applying the one-year

Border crossings ranked by speed:

• Hani i Hotit (from Ulcinj, Montenegro) — fastest, 5–15 min, open 24 hours
• Morina (from Prizren, Kosovo) — fast, 10–20 min, open 24 hours
• Qafë Thanë (from Ohrid, North Macedonia) — moderate, 15–30 min
• Kakavijë (from Ioannina, Greece) — slowest, 30–90 min weekends in summer
• Muriqan (from Shkodër to Montenegro) — quiet alternative to Hani i Hotit

At Hani i Hotit the guard took 30 seconds, stamped nothing, waved me through. The electronic record is all that matters — do not panic if you get no stamp.

Packing essentials for backpacking Albania

Pack for mountains and beach in one bag. A light down jacket for Valbona Pass mornings (40°F / 4°C even in June), trail shoes with grip for the scree descent, a quick-dry towel, a reef-safe swimsuit, and a power bank for Theth — guesthouse electricity is limited. Carry $100 in lek cash before leaving Shkodër for the Alps; there are no ATMs in Theth or Valbona.

The essential 10:

• Light down or synthetic jacket (packable) — pass mornings
• Trail shoes or lightweight hikers with real tread — Theth–Valbona scree
• Quick-dry towel — hostels charge for rental
• Swimsuit and reef-safe sunscreen — Riviera
• 10,000 mAh power bank — Theth electricity outages
• Universal adapter (Type C or F plug, 230V)
• Physical Visa/Mastercard plus backup ATM card
• $100 worth of lek in cash before the Alps
• Vodafone tourist SIM (100 GB for ~$28, 15 GB for ~$18)
• Small padlock for hostel lockers

I ran out of cash in Theth on night two. The guesthouse accepted euros at 1:95 (vs the real rate of 1:98) and I lost $6 on dinner. Carry more lek than you think you need before leaving Shkodër.

Pro Tip: Vodafone’s tourist SIM at TIA airport takes 10 minutes to set up and works on the Theth–Valbona trail for emergency calls (signal drops at the pass itself, returns in Valbona valley). Skip the ALBtelecom and One stands — Vodafone has the best Alps coverage.

The bottom line

TL;DR: Backpacking Albania in 10 days costs $400–$550 if you move fast, skip Ksamil, and travel in shoulder season. Book Trip’n’Hostel in Tirana, The Wanderers in Shkodër, and Rilindja in Valbona. Take the Berisha ferry across Komani Lake, hike Theth–Valbona in red-and-white blazes, and end with three nights in Himarë instead of fighting for a sunbed in Ksamil.

Five honest calls to save you money and regret:

• Go in June or September, not July or August.
• Skip Ksamil; go to Himarë or Dhërmi.
• Rent no car in the north; furgons plus the Komani ferry are cheaper and safer.
• Carry $100 in lek cash before any trip to Theth or Valbona.
• Do not shake your head when you mean no — in Albania, that means yes.

My 11-day trip, including the Corfu ferry out, totaled $492 with two splurge meals and one night in a private Himarë guesthouse. The hostels are social enough that you will not eat alone unless you want to. The country is still the best backpacker value in Europe — just not as cheap as it used to be.

What’s the one part of your Albania trip you’d defend against this guide — Ksamil, a rental car in the north, or the July-August date range? Tell me in the comments and make your case.